Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Quick Thought


Salon D'Eté: Swing, Swing, Swing, and a Craque Bébé
BERNADINE BRÖCKER

After an excited invitation to a "viney, ritzy place near Selfridges," I make my way to 21 Duke street wearing a long black dress, pearls, and assorted costume jewellery, feeling anachronistic as I walk past the crowd before Moose, another new bar on Duke Street.
There are no signs on what you will encounter at Salon d'Ete, the pop-up venue above a late-night club called L'Equipe Anglais. Once you get past the security, a long dark hallway leads to closed doors; besides the people walking in wearing fedora's and retro hairstyles, the place is a mystery.
But as soon as those doors swing open, and your eyes adjust - it's like you walk into another time period. The smoky room is indeed overgrown by vines and plants, with a stage at the back and many tables of good-looking people who seem to have stepped out of another time save for the shorter skirts and stilettos.
Besides the live music, the swing is in the step of waitresses, in the gleeful cocktails and shots (Craque Bebé to name one), in the caned swing dangling in the foyer, and in the champagne served in the characteristic Perrier Jouet belle epoque flowered flutes. This is some "Swing, Swing, Swing" that Benny Goodman would have been proud of. I've come back with new friends since, and each time we leave with a twinkle in our eyes. "Do you imagine what it would have been like, living in the thirties?" Nope, but this summer salon gets darn close to what I dream it to be.

Salon d'Eté is open Fridays and Saturdays until 11 pm.
Strict door policy, and entree fees vary between 10 to 20 pounds.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Quick Thought


Artesian Bar at the Langham Hotel
BERNADINE BRÖCKER

When reading the drink menu at the Artesian, if you hadn't already noticed, its late 19th century origins become apparent. Drinks ranging from the classic so-called "centuries-old" mint julep to Ernest Hemingway's favorite daiquiri to a champagne cocktail using a bottle from 1865 (the hotel's founding year) to a fun cocktail named Alice in Wonderland to commemorate Lewis Carrol's novel to a lengthy list of non-boozy cocktails: incentives abound to try something new or to remember something classic.

But you really should have noticed the eccentric Victorian-inspired interior from the moment you walk in. The chinoiserie wooden bar that would have made Chippendale smile is stocked with bottles galore, and surrounding it are comfortable stuffed sofas, 'klismos'-style chairs with a studded purple leather twist, chandeliers and table cloths... it's eclecticism at its strongest. And also in keeping with the Victorian inspiration, there is not an empty space in sight, the floor is carpeted in a funky pattern, and the pallette surrounding you abounds in tones of browns, golds, and purples. Taking the parlor and giving it a sassy undertone, you can equally feel right playing dominoes with a cocktail or sipping tea with some cucumber sandwiches in this place; and perhaps that's what makes it feel strangely welcoming.

Designed by the David Collins Studio and staffed with excellent mixologists you'll have fun watching, this bar at the Langham hotel is definitely a fun spot to sit for a little while, and nicely situated smack-dab in the middle of Upper Regent Street across from the hard-to-miss BBC building.



Also open since June 15th is the fun Cigar Bar on the second floor of the hotel, with a smoker-friendly terrace and fine range of Cuban and Dominican cigars.

The Artesian is open M-F from 4 till midnight, and midday to midnight on weekends.


Monday, May 31, 2010

Gothic Beyond Gloomth

BERNADINE BRÖCKER
Horace Walpole and Strawberry Hill




















(Image from the Lewis Walpole Library Database)

“Bot at the Sale of the great VIRTUOSO, Horace Walpole, Earl of Orford:” a title inscribed proudly by Horatio Rodd, a nineteenth-century art dealer, onto a simple seventeenth-century oak box with iron hinges. The item was indeed bought the object at the auction of Walpole’s belongings in 1842. By ending Horace Walpole and Strawberry Hill, an exhibition shown both in London and New Haven, with this artefact, curators Michael Snodin of the Victoria and Albert Museum and Cynthia Roman of Yale’s Lewis Walpole Library stress their theme for the participating historians and visitors. The box, with a provenance back to the Round Tower at Strawberry Hill, transformed into a relic symbolising the importance of Horace Walpole in the tradition of art collecting in Britain.
The son of Robert Walpole, Britain’s first Prime Minister from 1721 to 1742, Horace Walpole (1747-1797) attended Eton and Cambridge and embarked on the Grand Tour: the typical checklist for a youth of great prospects. Known in the academic world for the extensive mass of correspondence he assimilated with members of eighteenth-century society, Walpole has long been considered a vital link for comprehending Georgian England. Renewed scholarship, undoubtedly connected to the restoration of the site of Strawberry Hill itself added by the World Monuments Watch to the list of 100 Most Endangered Sites List, encourages one to think of the man in context of his home in Twickenham and collection as well as his writing. The home, empty of its contents, is scheduled to reopen in early autumn 2010, restored to its previous state after the wear and tear of more than a hundred years of other owners.
The neo-medieval castle, built from a small cottage purchased in 1747, which Walpole himself expressed would doubtfully survive ten years after his death, is now reconstructed through its contents at the Victoria and Albert Museum. The curators had to battle to create a visual atmosphere for a man admired in the present day for words rather than images. Who was Horace Walpole? What did he do, feel, and believe? And how did he show it?
Entering the show, after a short introduction and view of the first stage of Strawberry Hill’s development in 1756, the viewer proceeds to admire a glass case with three objects from Walpole’s collection. One, a framed picture of Alexander Pope’s house also in Twickenham, the second a Chinese porcelain fish bowl in which Walpole’s cat drowned, and the third a French statuette that greeted visitors entering Strawberry Hill’s Oratory in the eighteenth century. This visually unappealing combination embodies the tensions intrinsic to setting up this exhibition.
First of all, each of the very different looking objects comes from a collections scattered around the world, after the 1842 sale of Strawberry Hill’s contents. Moreover, collaboration between major constituents had to take place for this exhibition to occur. On one side, research by historians such as Wilmarth Sheldon Lewis (1895-1979) at Yale covered the importance of Walpole’s documentation of Georgian Society, the advent of Gothic Novels out of The Castle of Otranto (1764), and Walpole’s connections to men like Alexander Pope. Contrastingly, the Victoria and Albert Museum focuses on the history of visual language and design. The bronze sculpture in this first glass case, that Walpole named a “Saint,” attests to the visual scholarship provided by this institution to prove it to actually be a French fifteenth-century Figure of an Angel. Finally, Walpole’s interesting British character is admired for its high society anecdotal significance, and the fish bowl is now owned by the Honourable Earl of Derby.
These three strands of interest, scholarship, and pride braided into the display also have to be conscious not to reproduce the house, but glorify the significance of its contents. To top it all off, Walpole’s own voice recurs as red text on the wall labels, quoted from A Description of Strawberry Hill, the first illustrated guide to a British home written by the owner himself. The excitement of bringing back together so many items causes visual and curatorial contradictions, seemingly overlooked here by focusing on enthusiasm for the research.
The visitor first faces the objects related to the public persona of Walpole, then a summary of the Strawberry Hill’s different quarters, and an overview of his impact. An official painted portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds (the only object not originally in Walpole’s collection) accompanied by wall text describing the man as a “politician, antiquarian, man of letters, social commentator and collector…” greets the viewer upon entry. Prints and watercolours of the exteriors of Strawberry Hill on the well-transited road to Hampton Court, portraits of his family in Baroque poses within pompous gold frames, self-published books on his collection, and strict entry tickets for visitors, characterise Walpole within British estate owner tradition.
But the hints provided by the fun ode to a drowned cat, a description of a great group of four friends, and the gothic tracery patterned background design ushers the viewer on to expect new aspects of Walpole’s multifaceted personality. The next two rooms, aptly titled “The Antiquarian Interior” and “Animating History” include fascinating antiques and books collected by Walpole, along with objects his group of friends, the “Strawberry Committee,” used to portray a certain mood. An early watercolour by Richard Bentley of the hall and stairway, as well as designs for a glass lantern and furniture with gold and black, provide insight to the ‘gloomth’ the friends were trying to recreate. This Gothick style of design collaborates with treasures collected with “great emphasis on ‘pedigree’ of the objects;” this included a rare and beautiful 1538 Limoges horn, a suit of parade armour Walpole believed belonged to Francis I, a black mirror used by Queen Elizabeth’s conjurer, Dr. Dee, and Cardinal Wolsey’s hat.
After the antiquarian section and a marvellous exhibition of the Holbein chamber, the exhibition climaxes as the space literally turns the visitor around a corner, entering the section on the 1780 extension of the house. The new rooms, including the Stately Apartment, are smartly introduced by a watercolour of the room itself and Walpole’s diagram of picture-hanging strategies. Walpole embraces the crafts of his time, including a royal French ébaniste such as André-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) or a pair of Sèvres vases, but the curators show his quirky ideas, placing a fine piece of colourful Italian maiolica upon a Japanese-inspired lacquer commode next to a piece of Neoclassical furniture upholstered in red damask.
Another exciting aspect the curators exalt is the eccentricity of teaming a characteristic designer as Robert Adam with the colourful style preferred by Walpole. A 360-degree turn from the “gloomth” of the first chambers, Walpole appears to admit that he is a man of his times and not a medieval knight. The more British set up of a long gallery and French-inspired furniture aligned with a wonderful collection of portraits and landscapes, combined with Walpole’s twists are a more subtle rebellion to the traditional country-house formula, including his father’s villa at Houghton House in Bedfordshire.
But Horace, described post-mortum as a virtuoso, was also very proud of his sprezzatura, or nonchalance. After the display of “The Gallery” and “The Great North Bedchamber,” the show turns again to a more private, modest Walpole. “The Tribuna,” named after the treasure room in the Uffizi, was indeed Walpole’s treasure chamber, but also a type of personal chapel dedicated to the arts. The pieces, mainly miniatures and small valuables, introduce the man here headlined to be “England’s Vasari,” after the Italian Giorgio Vasari (1511-1574), often considered the first art historian. Annotating drawings and prints he collected, Walpole conjugated the stories of many artists otherwise ignored by history. Here again, the paradox of Walpole’s public and private face: while serious about his heraldic history and portraits, he informally names his book Anecdotes of Painting in England. The man who would wear a Grinling Gibbons wooden carved cravat and gloves of a 17th-century gentleman to greet guests at a party, decides to publish his personal work at a private press rather than at his alma mater in Cambridge. The man who so lovingly crafted letters to ladies and gentlemen, never seems to have been seriously romantic with anyone. The man who worked hard for a collection that would take 32 days to auction, still considered his ‘paper’ house able to disappear ten years after his death. These characteristics and more described within the 280 objects in this exhibition, spotlight Horace Walpole as the eighteenth-century man of mystery.















(image from The Lewis Walpole Library Database)

However, this exhibition forms a triangle that without the accompanying catalogue and a visit to Strawberry Hill itself can be quickly misinterpreted. The unique opportunity to view the pieces after being dispersed throughout the world, and to create a catalogue for understanding the reopening of Strawberry Hill, was bound to be appreciated by few and loved by even fewer. Within the V&A, a museum of design, the analysis of Walpole’s visual innovations is important, but perhaps the exhibition fared better at its previous destination, the Yale Centre for British Art, whence the Lewis Walpole Library hints to a more man of words rather than design. Much like the antiquarian in Thomas Rowlandson’s Exterior of Strawberry Hill, the knowledgeable viewer will be smitten both by the house’s subversive artistic attitude and anecdotal originality, but like the couple up ahead, could also easily become an unknowing passer-by.

Horace Walpole's Strawberry Hill is at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London SW7 (020 7942 2000), from 6 March to 4 July. www.vam.ac.uk

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Quick Thought

(image from http://www.rmn.fr)
BERNADINE BRÖCKER
La Voie du Tao: Un Autre Chemin de L'être

The exhibition was, to be brutally honest, terrible. But as I glance at the commentaries in the guest book while striding out of the show's gift shop, I am apparently one of the few amidst a sea of quite positive support. This might be because of the subject's newness; many of these artefacts were things I've never seen before. But coming up with a great idea is only a small part of a show.
The subject in and of itself is difficult to translate. The Taoist (pronounced "Daoist" - I learned something from the captions!) principles usually encompass words/calligraphy and a specific thought process rather than visual imagery, but these curators let the exhibition fall to surprising shallowness.
Quite deceivingly, the first section dedicated to "Cosmology" came close to achieving a great harmony of words, pictures, and form. A central cube lets the viewer walk around and look at artifacts depicting North, South, East and West within a darkened space, helping the viewer feel the atmosphere of scholarship and spirituality. The four-sided structure cleverly enabled the viewer to understand the fascinating iconography of each artifact and the detail of ancient printing techniques. The surrounding walls provided direct, straightforward text and displayed artefacts dedicated to early research into astronomy and navigation, including books and beautiful silk paintings.
Unfortunately as the show continues, the lights brighten, the objects are set up in display cases unrelated to their function, and a long-winded tour of Chinese legends and 'superstitions' takes place. Unclear allusions to the Tao-Te-Ching are made, and short stories that rang true to millions of people throughout history end up sounding like a monotone five-hour lecture.
The curators/designers decide to use digital scrolling wall text that fades in and out from a projector rather than the traditional wall labels. This gives a strange high-tech dimension to a show on a religion much based on veneration of nature. Coupled with jarring pseudo-'zen' wallpapers of textiles and textures badly Photoshopped, the balance intrinsic to the Tao and its Xi succumbs to the visual crime of over-saturation. While some wall colours transition at times to beautiful tones of blues, reds, or celadon green, the cacophonous music on what felt like a ten-second loop ensured that the viewer continued irritation. Coupled with large tours that come around every 10 minutes and construe themselves in small spaces, it was very difficult to peacefully view the objects and I, for one, felt grateful when the exhibition came to a close.
The pieces were grouped by subject rather than chronologically, a curatorial decision that makes little sense when encompassing such an enormous span of history. The exhibition starts with a map and a timeline that helps viewers understand what was happening comparatively in Europe during the Xin or Ting dynasties in China, but that does not cover up the holes in design in a show of such magnitude.
Overall, there could have been half of the 250 objects, more space between the sections, and a more scholarly rather than anecdotal approach to the pieces. It is apparent that much research was necessary to bring together all of these items from a religion that has not been traditionally well documented. But as it is now, this is Taoism explored in a most unharmonious "way."

La Voie du Tao is showing at the National Galleries of the Grand Palais in Paris until 5 July 2010.

Curated by Catherine Delacour, chief curator, Musée National des Arts Asiatiques Guimet, Paris and designed by Mostra

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Quick Thought

(photo from http://www.the-connaught.co.uk)

BERNADINE BRÖCKER
The Connaught Hotel Bar
Despite the road work that is making Mount Street more and more unbearable to leisurely stroll past, one walks through the doorway and into the lobby of the Connaught Hotel and instantly the mood changes. Dominated by an incredible mahogany staircase leading up to the rooms, and flanked to the right by the more traditional Coburg Bar, a little secret hides to be discovered in the far corner. The Connaught Bar boasts of an incredible range of special cocktails, impressive wines, and hefty prices. The small tables make way for feeling rich and fabulous. But beyond the straightforward elements needed for a certain range of clientele, this bar also plays with the senses in a different way. Designer David Collins made this chic establishment a beautiful-looking series of nooks, sleek and modern in feel but sprinkled with the neoclassical hints of a more upscale conservative luxury.
The white ceiling is embellished with rolling plaster decorations one could find on a good piece of French Louis XVI furniture, and then framed with a simple dentil cornice, sans the usual Victorian excessive layers of frieze often employed on neoclassical ceilings. The tones of greys, the glass, and the gold of the walls breathe light into the space while the rounded edges frame each peek-through as in an early 20th century photograph.
And once the discerning eye discovers that Collins is playing with the minimally neoclassical, elements smile and say "Yes, me too." The garlands hanging from the ceiling lamps are made of steel links rather than flowers or acanthus leaves; the circular wall lamps are not quite centered on their wall frames; the ebony-like neoclassical furniture upholstered in a decadent black leather that would have never been seen in the 18th century, and wine glasses are cut with a hint of a garland decoration as well. Usually a combination of such materials and quirks could lead to a feeling of kitsch or nouveau-riche, but in this case, it harmonizes beautifully, drowning out any memory of busy London outside.

Monday, October 19, 2009

BERNADINE BRÖCKER
A Royal Sèvres Collection at (Nearly) Its Best

The Royal Collection's exhibition on French porcelain at the Queen’s Gallery closed on Sunday, October 11th, 2009. From the crown’s three-volume catalogue of French porcelain, the chosen pieces were mainly King George IV’s extravagant acquisitions of Sèvres after the French Revolution brought them to the market. This conjecture of pieces "is considered to be the finest assemblage in the world."
Entering the exhibition, a witty juxtaposition of a curious Vincennes "Sunflower Clock" from c.1752 and an 1812 Mounted Potpourri vase before a portrait of George IV by Sir William Beechey introduced viewers to the story of Sèvres in England. This circular setup permitted the visitor to dwell on the specifics of soft- versus hard-paste porcelain, compare the Neoclassical vase of stunning royal blue ground and gilding to the flowery soft-paste and Rococo roots seen in the clock’s making; and simultaneously appreciate two watercolours by Charles Wilde of Carlton House interiors portraying Sèvres specimens decorating their mantelpieces, plinths, and furniture.
In the main room, the lights dimmed to small spotlights shining to the glittering pieces within the cases, slightly reminiscent of candlelight employed in the 19th century. The symmetrical display boasts the crown’s pairs and garnitures; while its orderliness contrasted with the lively details characteristic of Sèvres painting and gilding. Unfortunately, the glass was interspaced with metal bars before some of the pieces, and viewers had to writhe around these to get a closer look. The first case displayed unique forms of potpourri, vases, and their covers; of which the most spectacular was à vaisseau: a boat-shaped potpourri from 1758 of two ground colours, delightful decorations including a fleur-de-lis printed sail, and a historical reference to Madame Pompadour’s possessions at Versailles. Beyond, a case of early Vincennes/Sevres pieces referenced Meissen and Chinese precedents. Of these a groundless gilded chinoiserie sculpture of Two Figures Flanking a Basket accentuated the new technical prowess of white soft-paste creations in 1752.
Eight cases embedded in the walls characterized different aspects of Sèvres; from ground colours to forms to gilding techniques to bejewelling, from the difference between characteristic bleu céleste and little-known petit-verd, adding trivia about burnishers being mainly female, the heraldic significance of symbols, to the a giraffe that visited Paris and inspired teacup illustrations.
The 1783-1793 Louis XVI dinner and dessert service, unrivalled in Sèvres history, exponentially heightens the show’s value. In pristine condition and arranged centripetally at eye level, it resembled a tiered cake of delicacy as the finest service made by the craftsmen and women. However, another key object in the history of Sèvres manufactory and the King’s eye for quality stood on a frail wooden platform. The Table des Grands Capitaines, a masterful table commissioned by Napoleon after the Sèvres factory survived the French Revolution is a masterful oeuvre of craftsmanship. Visitors overlooked this technical masterpiece, painted with cameos of Grand Commanders, distracted by eccentric black ground pieces and jewelled cups and saucers lit in the cases adjacent to it.
My critique falls on the layout of this exhibition versus its content. While connoisseurs can always appreciate a showing of this calibre, and the curatorial team chose beauties for both the show and the display in the rest of the Buckingham galleries, pieces struggled for attention in cramped spaces despite the symmetry of their display. An important asset such as the Garniture of Three Vases from 1779, shown complete for the first time since the Revolution with Her Majesty's purchase of the last piece in 2004, was not exposed clearly either.
When compared to the spacious and mirrored cases for rival Wallace Collection Sèvres porcelain and the educational display of French porcelain at the V&A Ceramics gallery, this royal gallery’s organization did not give a manufacture such as porcelain the needed visual aid to be understood as the white gold it was. While the study room and catalogue emphasized the craftsmanship of the painting and gilding, the pieces stood on shelves so low that visitors had to bow down to view details on the rounded surfaces. Furthermore the beauty of the maker's mark and painter's signatures was only mentioned in the study room, which other places show visually e.g. employing glass shelves that expose the underside of pieces.
The luxurious exhibition markets great esteem for the British collection, especially in dialogue with the royal jewels and other invaluable artefacts in the Queen’s gallery. The pieces are truly unrivalled. However, the lack of focus on main characters loses the narrative thread central to this collection’s high regard.